Where does Mexico come from in the heart of the Himalayas? And where did a corner of our Motherland come from (my address is not a house or a street, my address is the Soviet Union)?In my opinion, there is no mysticism here – a simple movement of souls.Route: Khangasar – Tilicho base camp.Traveled: 10 km in 5 hoursThe total ascent is 570 m, the total descent is 200 m.Altitude above sea level: 4134 m.Terrain: rocky scree.
6:00. We got up “early” and packed a bunch of things to leave until tomorrow for safekeeping at the hotel. In fact, we left more than we took to the lake. Only sneakers, a puff, a sleeping bag, a thermos and what was already put on received a “pass” to the base camp. Everything else we loaded into large packages and placed in the room indicated by the hostess. There were already several trunks from our predecessors. Since we promised to stay at this hotel again on the way back, we were not charged anything for the service.
in the kitchen
morning coffee
dining room
7:00. At breakfast, I looked at the postcards on the dining room wall. With considerable surprise, I discovered the Kyiv Lavra and St. Petersburg bridges there. I won’t say, but it seemed to me that these postcards were sent by mail, and not just left as a souvenir by passing tourists.
hotel owner
postcard from Kyiv
Flower in a red window
7:40. We go out onto the path and I immediately remember why I disliked Gurdjieff, or rather his tale of Weselvoul.- Grandfather-grandfather, tell me about … how are they there, about people!- What do you want to know, my dear child?Is it true that humans don’t have hooves?!I was not in the shape to listen to such pearls for a long time, so after an hour I hide the player and switch to the perception of landscapes. Fortunately, they were not bad at all, and I was no longer in danger of falling asleep on the move.
Moon over rock
white wall
Roc Noir
A young Dutch couple, whom we met back in Tala, spent the night a little further than Khangasar in a lonely and quite decent hotel Tilicho Peak Shreekharka. Their Guide %D0%9A%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B0%D0%BD%D0%BE”>Takeshi Kitano) knows his stuff. I don’t know why I decided this. Maybe it’s a confident and calm manner of behavior. With one of his imperturbable looks, this comrade simply infected those around him with the confidence that everything was going according to plan, you would not be lost with me. The Dutch easily overtook us leaving a unique shade of pink in parting – the inimitable color of a women’s jacket stood before our eyes for a long time.
two coasts
start of sypuhi
narrow corridor
dragon teeth
[/caption ] end of bulk
marsyangdi start
The famous loose-leaf scree struck with its scale – a stone diagonal from the ground to the sky. Walking along its very middle, relying only on a narrow strip of the path, seemed crazy. From afar.In the vicinity, everything looked more than acceptable and did not cause any fear. We even accelerated, as the road slowly began to drop height. And when I saw the building of the base camp far ahead, and far behind – a figure of a man with a backpack, I completely dispersed. I suddenly thought that the Base Camp is not rubber – if we slow down, then we may not have enough places.
a glacier will start around the corner
this is a glacier (not rocks)
[/caption]
stone dragon
descent to the shelter
12:00. My companions were still descending the path when I entered this enchanted realm. It was clear at first glance that T.B.C. It was only by pure chance that I ended up in Nepal. In fact, this is a piece of Mexico – something like a frontier tavern from the movie “From Dusk Till Dawn.” Lazy criminal physiognomies of the staff, without the slightest hint of Mongoloid – poured Mexican-muchaches (ala D0%BE,_%D0%94%D1%8D%D0%BD%D0%BD%D0%B8″>Danny Trejo in his youth) quietly hating all gringos. Lazy gringos waiting for their oatmeal and soup (wait for the bastards, we have nowhere to hurry – soon the sunset :E). Lazy flies over the rubbish dump surrounding the crap toilet in Russian. Evil place.
Shelter - Tilicho Base Camp
I'm lying in the sun and my meat is drying next to me
[/ caption]
I, with my ardor, heat, and the desire to quickly occupy the living space, was very dissonant with the general atmosphere of the eternal siesta. Attempts to knock out information, and even better the keys to the room, crashed on the viscous: N-o-m-e-r-o-o-o-in n-e-e-t … e …. B-u-d-u-t p-o-t-o-m …And yet I managed to make good progress – after about an hour and a half I already knew that the rooms were vacated en masse after 14:00, when the main crowd of tourists returned from the lake, moreover, I could be sure that the manager would not forget about the three-bed room for us. I also managed to order lunch and found out that there were no blankets, light and water and never will be. No one really counted on water and electricity, but they squeezed the blankets in vain (I offered money – it didn’t help).
lazy mood
the pale faces are waiting
Russian bear
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Englishmen in vests
After dinner, still not getting a number, we had a little argument out of boredom. Some were eager to fight and wanted to run to the lake today (another 900 meters of climb) and return. Fortunately, someone else’s donkey persistence backed up by mega-arguments “Acclimatization schedule!” and “Afternoon cloudy – can’t see a damn thing!” survived. We stayed and thanks to this we did not miss the evening show.No, Salma Hayek on the table didn’t dance.Everything was much more fun. Not only all kinds of backpackers returned from the lake, but also our old acquaintances – two Russians with a supply of alcohol. Plus a yoga man from Moskau (he left his seminarians in Manang and rushed to Tilicho himself), plus Taras, well, we – it turned out to be a small, but very sincere Sabantuychik. Yogi Serega talked about his difficult, but very sincere relationship with Eastern women, the Russian bear on the go composed hilarious stories about Russian bears, and Taras took revenge for his grandfather wounded in the war, pouring alcohol into the mugs of German tourists. The main thing is not to inhale, otherwise kaput – he conscientiously warned in the purest Russian.
Sun radiation just burns. Life is impossible without goggles.
Our gatherings began at the height of the day, when even with your back to the sun, it is impossible to sit without dark glasses. Imperceptibly the day gave way to the darkest haze, and the table in the yard turned into a table in the canteen.
shining path
What do these goats eat?
I tried not to interfere with the flight of the soul of my interlocutors – I smiled a lot, spoke little, drank juniper tea and caught the vibrations with spreading ears. The wife, meanwhile, asked the German neighbors “for life” and at the same time reassured them, saying that if you don’t want to, you don’t have to drink alcohol, the guys won’t be offended and won’t beat your face. The burghers, to their credit, did not think to be frightened or offended, they chatted about something. The remnants of my school knowledge in German was enough to understand that they work in Bangalore, in the Indian representation of BOSH. And they rushed here for a week, to take a break from the heat and unwind in the mountains.
tent camp
extreme ad
is the flipper lying?
Rest from the heat, these are exactly the words I was looking for to describe a night in an unheated shelter at an altitude of 4200 above sea level. My wife and I sewed our sleeping bags, covered ourselves with puffs, put on hats and gloves (sleep must be met fully armed) and still never sweated. I forgot to say that already in the dark, in front of the BaseCamp, a tent camp was set up – a group of strong European pensioners, with an excellent plan to go through Tilicho “through” and go down straight to Jomsom.We don’t need so much, to reach the lake tomorrow , yes so that no clouds.Report table of contents.